Tengkolok (Jawi: تڠكولوق), also known as head, head / head, head bulge and head set , is a type of traditional Malay headdress worn by men. Tengkolok is made of long songket cloth folded and tied in a certain (makeup) style. In the present day, the corpse is more widely used in ceremonial ceremonies, such as royalty and attendance at royal ceremonies, and by grooms during weddings. According to the Dictionary of Dictionaries (4th edition), the terms “crouching”, “headband”, and “ascendant” / “tanjak” are synonymous; besides those described above, the word “crook” also refers to “the head covering or the veil (of silk etc) worn by women” , the definition of cloister as a female headgear is rarely used today.
However, some say that the headbands, headbands, and towers are different in terms of cloth and / or bonds, although the same applies, where the head is the base of the fabric made of fine linen with a coiled and thick top; The “headband” turns its lower and thin compared to the stern; “tanjak” is the circumference of a crook, but the fabric is much simpler and thinner. It was accepted by who the crew was created at the time of the Malacca Malay Sultanate. Before that time, it was the obligation of the common people to close their heads or to tie long hair in order to look neat when facing the king. The Malacca Malay community sought to use a long rectangular cloth to be folded and tied up to be a kind of neat headgear to be worn in formal affairs. These fabric ties are becoming more and more beautiful in terms of age, processed and modified according to the standards of the wearer.
The spheres can be made in different shapes with different types and patterns of fabric according to the social standards of the wearer. The general name for the different shape of the head is “makeup”. Each of these different colonies is also given a special name, for example: the tengkolok used by the Yang di-Pertuan Agong in the ceremonial ceremonies since the independence era, known as the “Revenge of the Dead”. Each of the Malay Rulers each wears a special headdress of makeup. For example, the Sultan of Selangor wears a gold-colored “Makeup Balung Raja” when attending his coronation ceremony or his birthday day. The royal tengkolok has been part of the ceremonial dress of the Malay Rules since the days of the Malay Sultanate. Tengkolok were made with songket about 2000 years ago. Before the discovery of songket, Malay rulers had worn headdresses made of Indian material and Chinese silk that were shaped into different styles as part of their regalia. The style of folding a headdress is called solek. The colours of the headdress vary from one state to another.
At ceremonies in the presence of the rulers, delegates and commoners are expected to wear specific types of destars. Those who do not follow the practice would be considered to have spoilt the ceremony, and to be ill-mannered and ignorant. His Majesty the Yang di-Pertuan Agong of Malaysia has a unique and special headdress. The royal headdress has a black colour with gold embroidery and its solek is called the “Dendam Tak Sudah” originated from Negeri Sembilan. On the front of the headdress is affixed with a crescent and star in white gold within which is the national emblem in Malaysia
Tanjak Lang Menyongsong Angin (Pahang)
In Pahang, there were a few types of destars which were used by the Pahang’s Sultans. The Tanjak Lang Menyongsong Angin (Eagle Flying Against the Wind), which is made of yellow songket, is the official headdress for His Royal Highness the Sultan of Pahang. Though it shares the same name with Tengkolok Menyongsang Angin from Perak, The Pahang destar is difference with its upward oval shape.
Tengkolok Ayam Patah Kepak (Perak)
The white destar with silver embroidery which is named as Ayam Patah Kepak (Roaster with Broken Wing) is an exclusive headdress for the current His Royal Highness the Sultan of Perak, in Malay traditional costume ethnics, colour plays an important role to reflect an individual’s position or social status. White is an exclusive colour for the sultan while yellow for the DYAM Raja Muda and black for the DYAM Raja Di Hilir of Perak.
Tanjak Belalai Gajah (Terengganu)
The Destar Belalai Gajah (Elephant Trunk) is an official destar for His Royal Highness the Sultan of Terengganu. It is made of fully embroidered yellow songket. Shape of the leaf on the front top of the destar is curled upward like a hurled-up elepjant’s trunk, itw lower part has three ‘takuk’ (notched) folds and the shoot or ‘sula’ is placed on the right to reflect the wearer’s position as a king.
Destar Ketam Budu (Kelantan)
The Destar Ketam Budu (Crab Souce) is worn by the sultan and the state’s officials in Kelantan. The differences lie in the base colour and the shape at the top front which supposed to resemble the blooming flower. This destar is easily recognized because unlike other destars in Peninsular Malaysia, its covers the entire head of the wearer.
Tengkolok Dendam Tak Sudah (Perlis)
Tengkolok Dendam Tak Sudah (Endless Longing) is part of the official costume for His Royal Highness the Raja Perlis, its base colour is light yellow and its five notched is known as the ‘daun palas’ (palm leaf) fold.
Tengkolok Dendam Tak Sudah (Kedah)
The headdress of His Royal Highness the Sultan Kedah is a new style of folding based on the fold of Dendam Tak Sudah (Endless Longing) from Negeri Sembilan. The Style was created after the royal wedding between both states. Made of black songket, it is the Sultan’s official headdress. It’s ‘wave of love’ leaf point to the right, while its shoot r which symbolizes power is on the left, to reflect the wearer as the ruling king.
Setanjak Balung Raja (Selangor)
This yellow songket destar is an official headdress for the present His Royal Highness the Sultan of Selangor. He wears it for the State’s Royal custom and ritual ceremonies such as the Coronation Ceremony, Royal Birthday and so on. The design of destar is adapted from the Tengkolok Balung Ayam (Roaster’s Comb) from Perak after a royal wedding between the two states.
Destar Dendam Tak Sudah (Negeri Sembilan)
In Negeri Sembilan destar is only referred as deta. This yellow songket destar is an official headdress of His Royal Highness the Yang di-Pertuan Besar Negeri Sembilan. While wearing it, the position of the ‘shoot of love’ has to be exactly above the left eye its ‘wave of love’ leaf points to the right. This indicates that the wearer is the state’s ruler.